Thinking of adopting? Read some information offered by the CompuPet community.
These articles were submitted by the community to help people through the process of adopting a pet.

Article 1 2 3 4 5 6

Article 1

Adoption process: first need to call or e-mail the shelter of pet you are looking into adopting and who you are and what type of a home will you be able to offer the pet. The shelter will e-mail you an adoption app. and they will need to fill it out and return. If all checks out the shelter will call you when pet is ready to be adopted. Surrender process: need to call or e-mail the shelter of what breed pet is to be turned in and why it is in need of surrendering. Also need as much back ground info like food pet eats, feeding times, vet check ups and shot records. Likes, dislikes, pet's name condition and temperament. The more info we have on the pet the better we can get it the help it needs and the best new home and owner.

Article 2

Adopting a pet is a very big decision. Pets can live for years, 10-15 for most cats and dogs, or up to 70 for some birds. First one should decide what type of a pet - cat, dog, bird, ferret, reptile etc. This should be based on lifestyle, expectations, and family. If they aren't home most of the day, a cat would do better; if they are wanting a pet for walking and outdoor activities, a dog would be great.

Research must be done - on the type of pet and/or the breed. Dogs are small and cute as puppies but some can get quite large. Ferrets seem like pocket pets but they are more like a cat or a dog and can be a lot of work. Another consideration is what plans are made to do with a pet for family vacations - stay in a kennel, have neighbors care for, or bring with them.

Costs can be quite high for medical care. Specialized veterinary care is needed for exotic pets. All animals must be spayed or neutered. Behavioral training is essential for dogs - it can make a great family pet out of an initially out of control puppy.

First, get educated. A very good book is "Ferrets for Dummies" -- it contains *correct* information, something lacking in some books, and is well-written and funny. It's a good book to have whether you're a new owner or an old hand.

You need to be sure you know what you're getting into. Ferrets are cute, intelligent, lively pets and a lot of fun. They're also like 2-year-olds with fur! They get into everything, steal and hide most anything they can carry, knock over drinks, and even make phone calls! They'll steal your cell phone, wallet, keys and shoes and hide them under the couch. They've been known to bite the buttons off TV remotes (and if they swallow it, that's a very expensive emergency surgery to remove the blockage!). They're very flexible ... anything they can get their head into, they can get their entire body into. This makes them great escape artists, and many ferrets have gotten out of the cage, out of the house, into furnace ductwork, into walls, etc.

They're very intelligent -- scientists measure intelligence in animals by comparing the brain-to-body ratio ... how much brain they have to run that body. Ferrets have a higher ratio than cats and dogs, and all that intelligence they put into getting into things, getting places you don't want them to be, and figuring out things you wish they wouldn't. Ferrets need a lot of time out of the cage (or they'll become neurotic and depressed). In fact, due their intelligence, the more time you spend with your ferret, the better pet it becomes. They need mental stimulation, time to run and explore, and time to interact with their humans.

Once you've educated yourself on what a ferret needs to be happy, then you need to research what they need to be healthy. Ferrets require expensive high-protein, meat-based food. Poor food equals poor health. Many veterinarians know very little about ferrets, so it's up to you to do your homework. You need to know what the symptoms are of various common illnesses (adrenal disease, insulinoma, and intestinal blockages at a bare minimum) and you have to look hard and carefully to find a good veterinarian that is expert in the treatment of ferrets. If your vet thinks there is no treatment for adrenal disease, he's way behind the times. If he's never heard of ADV (Aleutian's Disease Virus), they haven't been keeping up with new developments.

If you still want a ferret, then you need to spend some time ferret-proofing an area of your home where the ferret can interact with you and your family, be safe and not wreak *too* much havoc. (Havoc is a ferret's middle name.) You'll need a secure cage to put them in at night and while you aren't home to supervise. You'll need a litter box (no dinky triangular boxes, please!), water bottle, drip cup, food dish, hammock and bedding. Dishes should attach firmly to the cage, and you should get a strong clip to keep the ferret from dumping its litter box (we say they like to "rearrange their furniture".) The book recommended above will help with equipment needs.

If you adopt from my shelter, I will give you a list of the food they are used to eating. It's good to have what they're used to to ease the transition between shelter and your home.

Article 3

When some one contacts me about  wanting to  adopt a pot bellied pig  I  love to  hear that they have done some research on the species . Having to educate from first  contact leaves me to wonder if  wanting a pig  is  based on  a whim and not one they have  thought out. Educating is one of  the biggest   time consumers  and one I relish in.  I could spend all day just talking about pigs and am here 24/7 for them.  However all the best advice  in the world  is worth nothing unless the caller is listening. Many  of us  will hear what we want to hear and many will filter out the negatives about living with a pig. When  calling  some one in rescue, know that the rescuer  has made it their life to care for them.  Has made it their business to know the species  and the best  care, feed, accommodations and medical knowledge to say the least. The fact is  the rescuer  has sacrificed their lives and  has given  of everything  to do exactly that.  The rescuer 's education  should be  thorough  and  therefore respected.   It is the pigs best interest  we  have at heart so offering  the knowledge  so  your pig  will be  happy , safe and content  should be in  the adopters  best  interest as well. On a final note, visit  a respected  sanctuary  and see  first  hand  how they live.  Contact  the shelters and find out who the rescuers in your  neighborhood are . Go visit someone who   is guardian to a  pot bellied  pig   and see if   you can offer   a "home"  to  these  kindred spirits in every sense of the word.   

Article 4

With the breed I work with, I wish people would research on them before committing to an adoption. I will also send them information as well. We have a pre-adoption questionnaire that we ask people to fill out. We do a house check, to make sure they have a tall enough fence and a sturdy one as well. W have the people fill out an adoption form on the dog they are interested in adopting. We give them instructions and a copy of the adoption form, medical records, plus other stuff that will go with the dog. We follow up in a day or two to see how the dog is doing. We let the people know we are there to help them with problems. As for t he Dog, we have them all updated on shots, cleaned up if needed. Micro chipped, and altered, prior to being adopted. We do heart worm test as well. They also get a rescue tag, with a number we keep in our data base, and ask them to never take it off. If they loose it to let us know and we will issue another one.

If they need to place the dog, we expect them to contact us first. We usually take our dogs back, and in some cases even have to board them, until there is room in rescue. Or if they can keep the dog for a while, we will get the dog listed on the web page, and I expect the people to let us know where the dog goes, when they place it.

Article 5

Before considering adopting, take a serious look at your lifestyle.  Do you have small (under 5 years) children?  Are you a workaholic?  A stay-at-home mom/dad?  The biggest misconception people have when adopting cats is that they are absolutely no care.  Many people want a cat because they are simply too busy to own a dog.  They want a pet that is 'push-button-control'.  Cats ARE a responsibility. Cats ARE social.  Anyone looking for a pet that requires no care or attention should really consider a goldfish (although even fish require maintenance).

Generally people want kittens.  While kittens are cute and fluffy, they are the most amount of work.  Kittens are destructive and extremely active.  Their little size means that they will climb to reach the height they want instead of jump (and if the height is your lap, this means they will climb up your leg whether or not it is encased in pants).  People who have busy, busy lifestyles - work, home, family, kids, piano lessons, swim club, gym should really consider a young cat.

Another tip.  If you have never owned (or been owned by) a cat, please do at least a minimum of research.  Cats absolutely DO have personalities and character traits/flaws.  Like dogs, different cats are better suited to different lifestyles.  If you are insisting on adopting a young kitten, it is virtually impossible to predict it's temperament.  If you want a guaranty of temperament, consider adopting a cat that is 6 months old or older.  Remember, even the cutest, smallest, fluffiest little kitten will be a cat in a matter of months.

When dealing with a rescue organization, do not be afraid to ask questions.  Make sure the organization you are dealing with is indeed dedicated to the health and welfare of the animals while, simultaneously taking the needs of the person into consideration.  All rescues charge fees for adoption.  These fees cover the costs (barely) of animal rescue.  What so many people do not realize is that a large part of what rescue operations do is the rescue of very, very sick and otherwise un adoptable cats.  Each organization spays and/or neuters hundreds, if not thousands of stray cats every year.  These are cats that are living outdoors in the wild.  The fees we charge help to cover the medical costs not just for the cat you are adopting, but also for the medical bills for all the cats for which we receive not one nickel in compensation.  If the cost of adopting is your first criteria, you may wish to reconsider your intentions for adoption.  There is an old adage: "there is no such thing as a free cat".  This is so true.  By the time you bring home your "free to a good home" kitty, take her to the vet, have her wormed, spayed and her shots (and this assumes there is no surprises in the interim),  your cat will have cost you anywhere from $200-$500.  A cat from a rescue has already been vetted, had it's shots (age appropriate), been wormed and, if old enough, been altered.  When you think about it, it's a bargain!  Having said this, there is never, ever a guarantee that all cats are 100% healthy.  Nobody can make this type of guarantee.  What we can do, however, is everything in our power to ensure the cat is healthy prior to its being adopted.

They ideal adoptive family will:

-have done some research and be somewhat cat savey;
-be more interested in a cat's personality then its colour or gender;
-take the cat's needs into consideration and understand that keeping a cat indoors is the best for the cat;
-will, under no circumstances, declaw a cat;
-will ask a lot of good questions;
-will spend enough time at the shelter holding and playing with different cats and make a wise choice;
-will be willing to adopt 2 cats together, especially if one of them is under 12 weeks of age.

A poor adoptive prospect will:

-be concerned first and foremost about the cost of adopting;
-will insist on allowing a cat outdoors;
-will want to declaw;
-will only adopt a cat that matches their decor (yes! this does happen);
-will have previously owned cats that they've discarded;
-will insist that cat's never fall off balconies;

A good Shelter will:

-Have a clear and concise  contract;
-have an honest return policy;
-will be available to assist if problems occur;
-will be understanding and take the time to help you and your new pet adjust;
-will provide referrals if asked;
-will have a good track record of adoptions;
-provide any medical records in their possession;
-will invite you to visit, spend time, answer questions; and
-will keep the animals in a clean, sanitary, comfortable and happy environment.

A poor Shelter will: 

-Not return your calls in a timely manner;
-will take a militant stance or make you jump through hoops to adopt;
-will only give you time until you take home your cat, but thereafter appear to have little or no time for you;
-will not honour their contract (or will have no contract or one that is too extreme);
-refuse to provide medical records;
-will have little turnover in adoptions and keep the animals in an unsanitary environment;
-will act as a policing agent.

No matter who you adopt from, whether or not you like or approve of the organization; no matter what personal feelings you may have toward the individual you are dealing with, please always keep in mind there is a poor animal involved in the middle.  Saving the life of a cat in need should always be the primary concern for all parties involved.

A special note about Humane Societies and Animal Services:  While these are much larger organizations, government run and they do not have a no kill policy (as do the smaller shelters), please do not let this stop you from considering an adoption from such organizations.  The best way to help these large organizations spare the lives of the vast number of animals they have in their care is to get as many as possible adopted out.  If you have tried to find your perfect kitty at the smaller, volunteer run shelters without success, please consider a visit to your local Animal Services shelter or Humane Society.

Article 6

First of all, the whole family should sit down and discuss the addition of a pet in their home. The addition of a pet to any home should not be taken lightly.The responsibility of the new pet addition will fall on the parents shoulders. It is a commitment to the animal that can last years. It is a responsibility, much like adding another child to the family.It will take the whole family committed to the pet addition , not just one family member. Never add a pet to check your child's maturity level, the child is bound to fail. The child will go on to other things, and the pet WILL get kicked to the curb.The first 30-90 days is the hardest when adding a pet to your home. The pet needs time to adjust as well as the family. Expect to have some potting accidents, expect  missing a few things, also expect a few amputated arms and legs from dolls, soldiers etc.  If you expect it, then when it happens, you will not be so frustrated or anxious. These are animals we are speaking of, they do not come with a college degrees. The pet with time, love, patience and understanding WILL become a wonderful addition to your family. Training, training, training is the key to success.If all fails, DO NOT take the pet to a shelter, or dog pound.Call the adoption agency where you adopted the pet and see if they have a return policy.